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What you will need:
Tools Needed:
Tools:
- Good set of sockets
- Basic tools
- Jack and stands
- Bungee cords
- Angle grinder/Sawsall/die grinder w/cutoff wheel
- Bench Vice
- Propane Torch
- Mig Welder (if mounting swaybar brackets yourself)
- Optional: Impact gun and sockets
- Optional: Ratchet strap
Parts/supplies you will need:
Parts:
- Heavy Duty Zip Ties
- Spray Paint
- 9" DLS Rearend
- U-Joints
- Swaybar Mounting Brackets
- Swaybar Endlinks (these tend to break very easily, we broke one with ease)
- Recommend: Steel or stronger Driveshaft, Aftermarket adjustable Torque Arm, DS Loop
- Optional: New Shocks, Panhard Bar, Swaybar, Brakes, etc.
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Introduction
When the general was designing the fbody, they really goofed up on choosing a rear end. The
stock 10 bolt is just weak, it barely holds up to a stock car, a lot of manual cars are breaking
them on stock tires on the street! I think its safe to say that anyone looking to increase power
in their fbody will eventually need a new rear end. This install document was written to give
people a step by step instruction on how to install a DLS(Driveline Solutions) moser 9" rear
in their car. This install goes through installing a DLS 9" rear with a 4 channel setup using a
stock driveshaft and conversion ujoints.
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Rearend Selection
Selecting Options:
So your getting a 9" rear and need to choose what you want on it. We will give you some
basic help on each item. more to come...
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Part 1: Removal
Time To Complete: 1-2 hours
First, block the front wheels and jack the rear end up as high as you can. place jackstands on
the rear subframes. Remove rear wheel lugs (19mm or 3/4) and roll the tires off to the side.
Put the car in neutral and undo the parking brake. Remove the 2 (15mm) caliper bolts
holding the calipers and use bungee cords to hold the caliper away from everything. Remove
the rotors and set them off to the side. Remove the driveshaft, starting with the ujoint bolts
(11mm). After removing the u-bolts drop the rear end of the driveshaft down then pull it
from the front to the rear to pull the yolk out of the rear of the trans. Remove the drivers side
Panhard bar bolt (21mm on the bolt - 18mm on the nut) and move the bar out of the way, if
you want to keep your stock one. If you are replacing the PHB remove the whole bar.
Remove the 2 bolts(21mm top and bottom) on the torque arm and move the arm out of the
way. You may need to get a jack under the rear end to take the load off the torque arm in
order to get the bolts out. Remove the sway bar by removing the u-bolts that are attached to
the rear end (13mm) and removing the swaybar end links. Be careful removing the end links
as they are very easy to break. We broke one fairly easily. We recommend getting new
swaybar end links with bushings, polyurathane ones are available at most autoparts stores.
Remove the brake line clip on the drivers side that is attached to the housing (13mm).
Remove the 2 bolts holding the parking brake cable P-shaped brackets that are attached to the
rear end cover bolts (13mm). Remove the bolts (10mm - open end wrench required) holding
the 4-channel/ABS sensors on the rear end backing plates. Remove the sensors, might require
a little force. Save these as they will go on your new rear end, make sure to clean the ends of
metal shavings and debris.
Remove the parking brake cables from the arms on the backing plates, using pliers helps.
Then use pliers on the clips to pop the parking brake cables from the brackets and use force
to pull the cable through the opening on the side of the bracket.
Remove the metal brake lines from the metal clip on the axle housings by useing a flathead
screwdriver and prying the tab up. Support the rear end with a jack. Remove the bolts (18mm
wrench 18mm socket) from the Rearend side of the LCA's and drop the LCA's down and out
of the way. Undo the clips that hold the 4-channel/ABS sensor wires to the rear end using a
flathead screwdriver.
Now we need to modify the bracket that holds the parking brake cable so that it will work
with the new rear. We need to cut the bracket in half using an angle grinder with a cutoff
wheel or some other cutting tool. Just cut it in half where the hole is so that its less work.
Refer to the picture on the left. Remove the shock bolts (21mm) - at this point the rear is only
being held up by the shocks, becareful to balance it properly on the jack. Slowly lower the
rear end using the jack, remove the springs now that the rear is hanging down lower.
Carefully roll the rear end out on the jack and put off to the side. You are now done with
removal. Now is a good time to replace your shocks if you want to. If you already have a
new driveshaft with the proper ujoints, continue on to part 3.
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Part 2: Driveshaft Prep
Time To Complete: Less than a hour
If using a stock drive shaft you need to remove the old ujoint. Put your driveshaft on your
work bench using a vise and tightening it against the side of the ujoint that isnt connected to
the ds. Heat up the joints where they touch the driveshaft until the nylon filling comes out.
Use a rubber hammer and tap the driveshaft down so the bearing/joint pops out. do this on
both sides. get your new 1330 u-joint out and remove the two bearings that are to be put into
the drive shaft. Grease the inside of them to prevent the bearings from falling out (not fun).
Place on bearing into the outside of the driveshaft. Put the driveshaft in the vise with it
pressing on the bearing on one side, and the driveshaft on the other. Put the ujoint into the
bearing in the driveshaft and line it up. Press the bearing in. Do this on the other side as well.
Grab a socket that is just slightly smaller than the bearing. On one side press the bearing in
past the inside line of the driveshaft. Attach the supplied inside snap ring. Do this to the other
side as well. Tap the driveshaft with a rubber hammer to 'seat' the bearings back in. The joint
should move pretty freely now. Your driveshaft is now ready to be installed.
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Part 3: Installation
Time To Complete: 1-2 hours
Place the new 9" on the jack and slide it under the car. Use the jack to lift the rear up, put the
shock studs thru the rear and put the bolts in a couple of turns. Re-position the rear and line
up the torque arm. Reinstall the tq arm bolts (21mm top and bottom) by using the jack to get
the rear in the right position for the bolts to in. Reinstall the springs. Reinstall the LCA bolts
(18mm) making sure you include the parking brake cable bracket, you might have to use
force (hammer) or even a ratchet strap to position the rear to get the bolts in. Tighten the
Shock bolts and nuts. Now you need to remove the parking brake components from the old
rear. Rotate the parking brake adjusting nut until the adjuster is in the closed or fully seated
position. Take a screwdriver and pry the parking brake shoe up and off of the parking brake
retainer clip. Now angle the parking shoe enough to get it around the axle ends. Once the
shoe is off, pull the ends off of the adjuster. There should be a small rod inside of all the
greece, do not loose this. After the 2 end caps and rod our out, you can then remove the
parking brake lever by wiggling it out.
Install the parking brake components on the new rear end, in the same way you removed
them. Make sure you rotate the parking brake adjusting nut until the adjuster is in the closed
or fully seated position. Install the brake lever. Fit the Shoe over the axle. Grab the shoe on
each side and install it like in the illustration above. Use a screwdriver to pry the shoe into
position on the retaining clip. Center the parking shoe. Install the brake rotors making sure
the parking brake shoe is centered right, you wont be able to get the rotor on if its not
centered.
Mock-up the calipers on the rear so you can properly run the brake lines and not pinch
anything. Route the brake lines, parking cable and 4-channel/abs sensor wires using heavy
duty zip ties to secure everything. Use some pliers to pull the parking brake lever back and
install the cable on the lever. Mount the parking brake cable in the bracket by forceing the
cable in the bracket on the spring part of the cable and then pushing it on past the retaining
clip. Fully install rear calipers and tighten the crap out of the bolts (15mm). Install a few lug
nuts and rotate the rear to check for dragging on the parking brake. Install the driveshaft and
tighten the ubolts (11mm). Next we need to install the sway bar.
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Part 4: Sway Bar
Time To Complete: Less than a hour
Option 1
Weld on Sway Bar Brackets
If you have a mig welder and are up for the task, you can weld the brackets on. Install the
sway bar with the endlinks. Mock up the brackets and mark the welding area to grind away
the paint. Take out the brackets and using a grinder, grind all the paint off the area. Position
the brackets in place, and tack weld it. If the position is good, then weld it in all the way. Bolt
the bar into place using the stock hardware on the new bracket. Use some black paint and
paint over all the welded areas to help stop rust.
Option 2
Shop Install Sway Bar Brackets
For most people, and if you dont have a welder, you need to take your car up to a shop to
have them weld the sway bar brackets into place with the sway bar to position it.
Option 3
Exhaust Clamps
You might be able to get away with using the right size exhaust clamp, like the factory does
cept bigger diameter. Some people have done it this way but you have to watch the size of
the clamp because it can change the location of your sway bar and cause extra stress on the
end links. We do not support this method but for some fabricators out there you can try it if
you want.
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Final Assembly and Testing
Time To Complete: Varies
Now that the rear is installed, we can clean up, check over everything to make sure you didnt
forget something, check bolt tightness, etc. Install the tires and lugs, raise the car off the
stands and lower it to the ground. Next check the parking brake for proper operation. Don't
forget the front blocks holding the front wheels. Start her up and take her for a test drive.
Keep your windows down to listen for noises. Do not exceed 65mph and take it easy for at
least the first 100miles. Also, get a good decent test drive in, no long trips or anything, when
you get back, let the rear cool for like 2 hours before you drive it again. When you get back,
check for leaks and also check everything over to make sure nothing came loose or anything.
Enjoy your new solid rearend :D
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